The can opener was invented 50 years after canning was
patented. In medieval and Renaissance Europe, knives were individualized to
each owner as specifically as wands in Harry
Potter, and didn’t become part of standard tableware until the 17th
century. Modern salted butter is 1 to 2 % salt; in 1305 AD, it was 10% salt for
the purposes of preservation. In Western Europe, the overbite only developed
recently—toward the late 18th century—due to the utensils we came to use
everyday. In Asia, the overbite was around for centuries because of the use of
chopsticks.
This is just a smattering of facts that are detailed in Consider the Fork by Bee Wilson. Its
thirteen-page bibliography is a testament to the meticulous research that went
into writing this book. Broken down into basic elements of the kitchen, each
chapter covers the gradual evolution of life in the kitchens. From the humble
wooden spoon to the types of metal used for pots and pans, Wilson provides a
fascinating history of cooking. With examples from around the globe, we learn
how hearths were incorporated into the home, and eventually, the multi-room
structure of aristocratic kitchens, with wet and dry pantries, game larders,
sculleries, dairy rooms, bakehouses, and rooms for smoking meats, salting, and
pastries. Sounds labyrinthine and the perfect setting for a novel!
The number of inspirational examples that begged to be
included in fiction were plentiful. A two-tiered steamer made of Corinthian
brass called an authepsa sold at an
auction in ancient Rome for the same amount of money that could have bought a
farm, according to Cicero. Cauldrons were so enormous and important as private
property that they were passed down in wills. The Celts believed cauldrons to
be a source of eternal abundance and knowledge, and an empty one symbolized
absolute misery.
As a resource for writing about food, Consider the Fork is wonderful. Whether it’s for historical
fiction, or building a world for an epic fantasy, this book offers insight into
how culture and culinary life grew around the kitchen. Each chapter gives a
long view—from ancient history to modern technology, and the idea that a fridge
may someday be able to sort your food for you so that things that are about to
expire are placed up front—shows how we adapted all the tools to meet our needs
over centuries. The author demonstrates the sometimes-healthy, sometimes-silly
skepticism that came with each new wave of technological development.
Refrigerators were cause for concern because butchers could sell outdated meat.
Currently, it’s the sous-vide. Another trendy device to take up counter space,
or truly a wonder that refines taste and texture in the best way? It’s
fascinating to read a history of everyday objects so many people take for
granted. One thing is for sure—whenever I write about cooking in my novels,
I’ll remember many details from this book, and the kitchens will be all that
much warmer and fragrant.