In the late 1990s, when I began my journey on the path to a
career in publishing, I discovered the books of an author who spoke to all the
Gothic nerdiness that I was: not only were her books about grammar and
punctuation infused with images of dark fantasy, but I also loved her florid
writing style. Karen Elizabeth Gordon’s instructional books remain close to me
writing desk as valued resources. At the time, I happened to notice another
book as well—and it took me many more years to read it than I expected.
There is nothing new about a tome of selected favorite
quotes and passages. However, what lies in the pages of The Ravenous Muse goes well beyond superficial, feel-good
platitudes that have been made into an endless stream of memes that fill the
Facebook newsfeed. The book is closer to the realm of literary criticism. The
relationship between authors, their characters, and food is explored in
detail—using examples from erudite and sometimes obscure sources.
Interspersed with interludes about Gordon’s own Muse, who
“comes in many moods and guises. Along with the hallucinogenic, metaphysical,
the provocative, and the capricious.” She describes her Muse as a “syrabite,
thinking of nothing but its own pleasure.” While many people may think of
artists as indulgent, it adds more depth to the notion that the Muse is
indulgent as well. And why not? Both Gordon and her Muse seek out works with “a
flair for edible words”—and indeed they find a rich feast.
Though many dishes and mealtime rituals are featured in The Ravenous Muse, a reoccurring element
was bread. Each culture venerates its bread. It seems to speak to the soul of
that culture—ties it to its history on so many levels. It can speak to dark
times as well, as shown in Piero Camporesi’s Bread of Dreams, which describes famine in the centuries throughout
pre-industrial Europe, and the effects of breads that were commonly made with
hallucinogens on a starving population.
“Bread—a polyvalent object on which life, death, and dreams
depend—becomes a cultural object of impoverished societies, the culminating
point and instrument, real and symbolic, of existence itself: a dense, polyvalent
paste of manifold virtue in which the nutritive function intermingles with the
therapeutic (herbs, seeds, and curative pastes were mixed into the bread),
magico-ritual suggestion which the ludico-fantastical, narcotic, and hypnotic.”
One of the reasons I began the Savored series was because of the importance of food in the arts. How food is
portrayed in literature reveals nuances of the setting and aspects of the
characters. Of Milorad Pavić’s Landscape
Painted with Tea, Gordon says, “Bread is mentioned in so many different
contexts that it nearly achieves the status of a character. Salt occurs with
similar frequency and effect, so that you begin to know what bread and salt are
all about, and along with them, the qualities and destinies of those who consume
them…food, too, is a witness to all that is thought, said, and felt.”
With this in mind, I set out to find an intriguing recipe
for bread that I could adapt. I wanted it to reflect history. I imagined
characters diving into a fresh, nourishing loaf of hazelnut bread, rich with
figs and honey butter. And herewith, the recipe:
Hazelnut and Fig Bread with Honey Butter
Honey Butter:
½ stick butter
2 tablespoons honey
Blend in bowl
½ stick butter
2 tablespoons honey
Blend in bowl
Bread:
1 1/3 cups water
1 ½ teaspoon lemon juice
3 cups flour
½ cup rye flour
1 ½ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons butter, melted
Packet of yeast
¼ cup dried figs, chopped
½ peeled hazelnuts, roasted and chopped
Roasting hazelnuts:
place on ungreased cookie sheet and roast at 350 for 15-20 minutes on the
middle rack. They should be browned and skins peeling. Place in warm towel and
let steam a couple of minutes. Rub in towel until skins mostly peel off. (I
find placing them in a plastic sandwich bag with a paper towel works well, and
leaves less of a mess.) Crush hazelnuts, and reserve for bread dough.
Pour packet of yeast into bread bowl. Add pinch of sugar and
a bit of warm water. Swirl to activate. Add flour (both regular and rye), salt,
hazelnuts, melted butter, and chopped figs. Add lemon juice and water. Blend
until you can work with the dough by hand. Add more water or flour as needed
until the dough is not sticky, and rolls well in your hands. Knead for 10
minutes. Set to rise for 90 minutes in a covered bowl, or until dough has doubled
in size.
Punch down the dough and knead again. Let rise in covered
bowl for 60 minutes. Prep bread pan with butter, and form bread in the pan. Let
rise, covered for 30 minutes.
Bake at 400 for about 25 minutes, until it’s golden brown
and the top of the loaf is hard to the touch. Knocking on it should sound
hollow.
Remove and let rest…but it won’t be long before you’re
grabbing the knife and cutting a slice to smear with the lovely honey-butter!